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SUPERMID 9X9 $385.00




Add an Optional InnerNet to create an ultra-light double walled tent that is modular and super stable in wind, rain and snow.

104" / 265cm Long
104" / 265cm Wide
70" / 175cm Tall varies with pitch height.

26oz / 625 gms PRO SILNYLON
Gray, Yellow, Brown

CUBEN FIBER 19 oz / 540gms
Green $840 .75 Type Strong Cuben Fiber
White $820 .75 Type Strong Cuben Fiber

The MLD Exclusive panel design eliminates over 40% of seams vs. other Mid designs. (No long vertical side seams joining the midpanel sides - now often copied...) Side panels are joined near the peak by a much shorter horizontal seam. This is stronger and requires 40% fewer seams and saves over 1.5oz of seam sealer Vs other Mids. Stronger + Lighter!

MLD SuperMids were used by Erin and Bretwood Higman for their record setting 4,000+ mile hike from Seatle to the end of Alaska.

We have included their 300+ nights of their daily living feedback in MLD SuperMids into our 2014 SUPERMID to make MLD Pyramids strong for all types of weather. See their blog for a pic of the Silnylon Pyramid still standing under 400lbs of snow buried to the top! The vista pic below is from one of their Alaska 2010 adventures.

BPL Review:

• 70+ sq/ft of usable floor space perfect for four or a palace for two or three.
• Oversize peak vent can be closed. -Pull out the wand and the vent velcros tightly shut for hard wind and blowing rani and snow. We like the ONE over oversize peak vent design best. Pitch the rear of the Mid into the wind to prevent rain and snow from blowing into the vent and creating a mini venturi effect to pull condensation out the oversize vent on the down wind side.
• Plenty of room to stand up and side wall shed snow well.
• NEW 2016: Four additional guy lines on the four main seams. Now a total of 17 tie outs!
• Main seams are triple rolled and stitched (MLD Exclusive) and flat felled.
• Interior Apex hang loop
• Apex reinforced with DYneema X
• Both doors roll open and tie back.
• Mid height zipper door snaps allows it to be partially opened.
• Eight ground level perimeter tieouts with LineLocs for easy adjustment. LineLocs make cold weather and winter use (burried snow anchors) MUCH easier. Linelocks can be removed to save about one ounce.
• Extra center side panel tieouts on all sides for really high winds.
• Hi Vis yellow guyline Included
• Use a short length of guyline to tie two trek poles together for center pole support

• ONLY zip the zipper up OR down when the bottom buckle is fastened to relieve stress on the zipper. Clean and Lube the Zipper as Needed.
• Most of the time you will pitch it a few inches off the ground for ventilation.
• In high winds, the use of side panel tieouts are recommended. ALWAYS use a short bungee loop on side panel tieouts and do not over tighten the side pullls or they will get 75%+ of the load on that one mid panel tieouts- you want the load distributed over all the tieouts with the main force directed to the corner main seam tieouts.

We do not offer pole extenders with this size Mid - it is too large and using a long pole extender would over stress a trek pole tip. Best to tie two trek poles together using a 6' piece of the guyline.


***This is a custom Non-Returnable Option***
18\\\" Nanoseeum (tm) bug netting along the bottom hem.
Net option also comes with a removable Peak Vent Net.
Adds about 8 ounces.

Stake Set
Eight Easton 9" stakes $25

Set Up Instructions

A four sided pyramid tent is one of the easiest shelter to set up! After a few test pitches most users can set it in in under 2 min and under one min when properly motivated!

Shelter Prep:
Cut four 18" guylines. Tie a 2" stake loop on one end. Thread the free end of the guyline into the corner linelocks on the shelter. - Up through the rear linelock slot/hole- over the bar and down through the front linelock slot/hole. Tie an overhand knot with a 1" tail to prevent the line from pulling out of the linelock.

First Set Up:

1: Adjust the corner guylines short - no more than 2" of slack from the linelocks.
2: Stake out the rear corners to the ground. The rear wall baseline between the corners should be medium tight with no slack.
3: Stake out the front corners. The side baseline of the shelker should be tight. Watch the angle formed by the rear and side walls of the shelter at the rear corners and position the front corners so that the rear corners form 90 degree angles. The goal is to have a perfectly square/rectangle floor base. As viewed from overhead the corners and corner guylines form a perfect X shape right out to the stakes.
4: Unzip the front door leaving the bottom buckle snapped.
5: Reach or step in and insert the center pole - adjust it's height to make the shelter tight.
6: Now you may cut and add any other mid panel or mid baseline guylines as needed. The lengths needed will be obvious. NOTE: Use a small bungee loop on any center panel tieouts to limit wind force on that tieouts. DO NOT stake out a center side panel tieouts too much- it should only move the wall a couple of inches out at most. DO NOT pull it so far it changes the shape of the mid wall.

That's It!!! The shelter should be tight and square. You can slightly tighten each corner linelock if needed.

Almost all set up problems occur when the shelter floor is not square with all corner angles as close to 90 degrees as possible or slack it left in the corner guylines.

NOTE: See the set up info for the InnerNets on the InnerNet product page.

Now is a good time to seam seal the SilNylon versions. Use the SilNet supplied to seal the main seams, center panels tieouts, door zipper stitching and the apex stitching. Use only a SMALL amount and do not go back over an area after 5min. You can use your finger to push the sealer into the seams. If you miss a spot wait until it is dry and then re-coat.

Seam Sealing Instructions

How to a Seam Seal an MLD Pro Silnylon Shelter

(Cuben Fiber Shelters do not need seam sealing.)

1: Pitch and inspect your shelter for any issues. Once it is seam sealed it is non returnable except for significant defects.

2: Use the supplied SilNet and only the SilNet. (If you want to dilute it or use some other silicone sealant it should work OK and is common (research this yourself online) but your are on your own- results may vary and are not covered by warranty - if you go this route it is assumed you know 100% what you are doing and have done it before!!!)

3: Pitch the shelter tightly. Temps should be above 60 F and humidity below 80%. You may do this indoors. You may also do one seam at a time indoors if the seem is stretched slightly. Pinning one seam from each end on the floor between two heavy objects works OK.

4: We use the SilNet straight from the tube. Do not make a big hole in the sealer tube - start small so you can control flow. Multiple small application is a lot better than one big smear.

5: Main Seams: Place a small bead on the seam along the stitching. Work on a 3’- 4’ section at a time. Use a finger to press the sealer into the stitching and the small valley at the edge of the seam where it is rolled under.


NOTE: You only need to seal the OUTSIDE of the shelter ONLY. You do not need to seal the bottom perimeter roller edge stitching. It is OK to add a small bead on the leading edge of the triangle tieouts reinforcement stitching, but it is not required.

SPECIAL AREAS: Add a little sealer to any tieout stitching on the middle of a panel (Mids, Cricket and SuperTarps). Seal the zipper storm flap stitching and tieouts on the Mids. Seal the stitching and apex tieouts areas on the Mids, Crickets and TrailStars.

IMPORTANT: Do no go back and forth over the wet seam too much - after a minute or three it will get gummy and look bad. Better to wait 8 hrs and then OK to add some over any area you missed.

NOTE: We highly advise you also use McNett ZipCare on the zipper when new and then every 30 days of use for a long life.

Available Options:
Bug Netting:
Fabric Type:
McNett Zip Lube & Cleaner:
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