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SOLOMID $195.00

Features




NOTE: See the MLD Homepage for info on order wait time.



This is the shelter used by Andrew Skurka on his incredible 4700mi Alaska -Yukon Expedition. - http://www.andrewskurka.com


SoloMid (tm)

The original ultralight one person backpacking pyramid design.


ULTRA FAST SET UP

SHEDS WIND FROM ALL DIRECTIONS

Add an Optional InnerNet to create an ultra-light double walled tent that is modular and super stable in wind, rain and snow.

ULTRA STRONG- Uses two poles in an inverted V for support- Poles also work to keep the large side panels supported when big wind blows then inward. It can also be pitched with one pole slightly offset to the front when big weather or wind is not expected.

$195 15.5 oz Pro Silnylon Gray , Yellow, Brown

$365 10.5 oz Cuben Fiber- Highly Durable .75 oz sq/yd Style Cuben Fiber - Light Olive Green Only




8' 8" Long
3' 6" Wide
48-52" Tall varies with pitch height.


COLORS
Silnylon: Sharkskin Gray, Olive Brown or Yellow
Cuben: Stealth Olive Green Only


• 30sq/ft of usable floor space - Room for you and all gear. Will fit a size Long sleeping bag for up to 6'4" users.
• Peak Vent - Very Large vent is held open by a flexible and removable wand. Can be fully closed to stop any blown snow from entering- Just pull out the wand and press the velcro together- about 5 seconds.
• Great for for light to moderate snow loads and strong wind FROM ANY DIRECTION
• 1.35 Silnylon - Strong and Fully Waterproof - Triple Stitched Seams
• Special Cuben bonding tape with 3 Times the UV resistance.
• #5 YKK Water Resistant Zipper w/ Storm Flap
• Interior Apex Hang Loop + Exterior Apex Tieout loop
• Peak is shaped for two trek pole handles to fit next to each other and reinforced with Dyneema X.
• Right door rolls open either half way (use the two mid height snaps) or fully open.
• Six ground level perimeter tieouts all with LineLocs for easy adjustment. LineLocs make winter use with burried snow anchors MUCH easier. Can be removed to save about .6oz
• Center rear panel tieout. Use the supplied bungee cord on there tieouts to reduce stress on the shelter. Only tighten very SLIGHTLY so the main bottom edge tieouts take most of the force - do not use to pull the panel out and change the shape of the mid.
• Over head gear hang loops on all four main seams to clip up bivy hoods, lights or to make a clothesline.
• Works perfect with most all 140cm adjustable poles. Fixed length pole users can ask for two free 6" pole jacks if needed. A fully extended 140cm pole is about 54" .

NOTE: CAUTION: Some of the lightest carbon fiber trek poles use the compact Leki style flex tips that are a smaller diameter than most trek pole standard tips. The small tips do not fit the pole extender tightly and may cause enough torque to break the pole tips. Using the 6\" extenders with those poles vertically should be OK but angling them or using 12" extenders may break the pole tips.


NOTES:
• Most of the time you will want to pitch the corners tight to the ground. The middle long side edge tieouts can then be staked out to give good ventilation along the edge.
• Two poles are used in an Inverted V angle for maximum stability. Only one pole can can be used off center but interior room is a bit less- personally I use it this way 90% of the time.
• ONLY zip the zipper up OR down when the bottom buckle is fastened to relieve stress on the zipper. Clean and Lube the Zipper as needed.
• Extra Ventilation Trick: Pitch the front and/or back side a bit loose and then use the middle tieout on a 3\\\\\\\'
line to pull the side out tight forming an large eyebrow shape edge to let under more air.
• Cut corner guylines at 2\\\' and center ones at 3\\\'- try it out - you may want to shorten them if you never expect to tie off dead men sticks in snow.
• ONLY zip the zipper up OR down when the bottom buckle is fastened to relieve stress on the zipper. Clean and Lube the Zipper as needed.

Picture Notes:
• All shots include a 6'1" 185lb model and a full length 72" sleep pad.
• Included in some pictures is the optional Solo InnerNet - 8oz.
• One shot shows a snow test- Silnylon SoloMid burried in hundreds of pounds of snow- NO DAMAGE- the two carbon fiber poles inside were very flexed! In real use you would need to shake it off during the night or dig it out as needed.


FAQs:
Q: What\\\'s the difference between the DuoMid (tm) and the SoloMid (tm)?
A: The DuoMid is much wider, more expensive, taller and has side panels reinforcement on all panels and at the middle of each end. The DuoMid is for for solo hikers that want more room and expect high wind or more than a little snow. The SoloMid packs smaller, uses two poles, has a lower profile and needs fewer stakes.

Q: Which fabric type should I get?
A: Silnylon: Costs less- very strong - yellow color option - returnable.
A: Cuben: Very strong- no stretch- lowest weight. You\\\'ll know if this one if for you...non returnable.

Q: How can I user spec out my SoloMid for lower weight?
A: Remove all the linelocks and use only small loops of smaller diameter line and cut off metal zipper pulls and replace with short line loops.



Included


• Guyline
• Sil Stuff Sack
• Seam Sealer


Options



Stake Set
Four Easton 9\\\\\\\" stakes and two 6.5\\\\\\\" Ti Skewer stakes. $20

12\\\" Perimeter Bug Netting
Light weight bug protection for moderate bug pressure- about 3.5oz. +$40





Set Up Instructions


A four sided pyramid tent is one of the easiest shelters to set up! After a few test pitches most users can set it in in under 2 min and under one min when properly motivated!

Shelter Prep:
Cut four 18\" guylines. Tie a 2\" stake loop on one end. Thread the free end of the guyline into the corner linelocks on the shelter. - Up through the rear linelock slot/hole- over the bar and down through the front linelock slot/hole. Tie an overhand knot with a 1\" tail to prevent the line from pulling out of the linelock.

First Set Up:

1: Adjust the corner guylines short - no more than 2\" of slack from the linelocks.
2: Stake out the rear corners to the ground. The rear wall baseline between the corners should be medium tight with no slack.
3: Stake out the front corners. The side baseline of the shelker should be tight. Watch the angle formed by the rear and side walls of the shelter at the rear corners and position the front corners so that the rear corners form 90 degree angles. The goal is to have a perfectly square/rectangle floor base. As viewed from overhead the corners and corner guylines form a perfect X shape right out to the stakes.
4: Unzip the front door leaving the bottom buckle snapped.
5: Reach or step in and insert the center pole - adjust it\'s height to make the shelter tight.
6: Now you may cut and add any other mid panel or mid baseline guylines as needed. The lengths needed will be obvious. NOTE: Use a small bungee loop on any center panel tieouts to limit wind force on that tieouts. DO NOT stake out a center side panel tieouts too much- it should only move the wall a couple of inches out at most. DO NOT pull it so far it changes the shape of the mid wall.

That\'s It!!! The shelter should be tight and square. You can slightly tighten each corner linelock if needed.

Almost all set up problems occur when the shelter floor is not square with all corner angles as close to 90 degrees as possible or slack it left in the corner guylines.

NOTE: See the set up info for the InnerNets on the InnerNet product page.


Now is a good time to seam seal the SIlNylon versions. Use the SilNet supplied to seal the main seams, center panels tieouts, door zipper stitching and the apex stitching. Use only a SMALL amount and do not go back over an area after 5min. You can use your finger to push the sealer into the seams. If you miss a spot wait until it is dry and then re-coat.


Seam Sealing Instructions



How to a Seam Seal an MLD Pro Silnylon Shelter

(Cuben Fiber Shelters do not need seam sealing.)

1: Pitch and inspect your shelter for any issues. Once it is seam sealed it is non returnable except for significant defects.

2: Use the supplied SilNet and only the SilNet. (If you want to dilute it or use some other silicone sealant it should work OK and is common (research this yourself online) but your are on your own- results may vary and are not covered by warranty - if you go this route it is assumed you know 100% what you are doing and have done it before!!!)

3: Pitch the shelter tightly. Temps should be above 60 F and humidity below 80%. You may do this indoors. You may also do one seam at a time indoors if the seem is stretched slightly. Pinning one seam from each end on the floor between two heavy objects works OK.

4: We use the SilNet straight from the tube. Do not make a big hole in the sealer tube - start small so you can control flow. Multiple small application is a lot better than one big smear.

5: Main Seams: Place a small bead on the seam along the stitching. Work on a 3’- 4’ section at a time. Use a finger to press the sealer into the stitching and the small valley at the edge of the seam where it is rolled under.

ALLOW AT LEAST 24HRS TO FULLY DRY.

NOTE: You only need to seal the OUTSIDE of the shelter ONLY. You do not need to seal the bottom perimeter roller edge stitching. It is OK to add a small bead on the leading edge of the triangle tieouts reinforcement stitching, but it is not required.

SPECIAL AREAS: Add a little sealer to any tieout stitching on the middle of a panel (Mids, Cricket and SuperTarps). Seal the zipper storm flap stitching and tieouts on the Mids. Seal the stitching and apex tieouts areas on the Mids, Crickets and TrailStars.

IMPORTANT: Do no go back and forth over the wet seam too much - after a minute or three it will get gummy and look bad. Better to wait 8 hrs and then OK to add some over any area you missed.

NOTE: We highly advise you also use McNett ZipCare on the zipper when new and then every 30 days of use for a long life.


Available Options:
Bug Netting:
Color:
Solo InnerNet:
Stakes:
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